The country is 4,300 km long, so fly the long legs and take the excellent overnight buses for the rest. Torres del Paine must be booked months ahead.
- Chile is 4,300 km long, so fly the long legs - Santiago to San Pedro is a 22-hour bus or a 2-hour flight, and LATAM, Sky and JetSmart compete hard on price.
- Buses are excellent for anything under 10 hours. Turbus and Pullman run modern coaches, and cama or semi-cama means a seat that reclines nearly flat.
- In Santiago buy a bip! card for CLP 1,550 and load it; it works on the metro and the buses, and the metro closes around 23:00.
- Torres del Paine must be booked months ahead. Park entry goes through CONAF and the refugios sell out by August for the following January - you cannot walk in and find a bed.
- Watch the budget airlines' baggage rules. JetSmart and Sky sell fares with no hold bag and charge heavily at the gate.
Distances, honestly
- Chile is 4,300 km long and 180 km wide on average. Santiago to San Pedro de Atacama is a 22-hour bus or a 2-hour flight.
- Fly the long legs. LATAM, Sky and JetSmart compete hard and a domestic ticket booked ahead is often cheaper than the bus.
- Watch the baggage rules on the budget carriers. JetSmart and Sky sell fares with no hold bag and charge heavily at the gate.
- Buses are excellent for anything under 10 hours: Turbus and Pullman run modern coaches, and "cama" and "semi-cama" mean seats that recline nearly flat.
- Book buses online or at the terminal. In January and February the popular routes sell out.
Santiago
- The metro is fast, clean and cheap, and it closes around 23:00.
- Buy a bip! card (CLP 1,550) and load it; it works on the metro and the buses.
- Avoid the metro at rush hour with luggage; it is genuinely packed.
- Uber, Cabify and DiDi all work and are the normal way to move at night.
- Street taxis are metered and generally fine, but the apps remove the argument.
The two trips everyone takes
- San Pedro de Atacama: tours are booked in town the day before, and the El Tatio geysers mean a 04:00 start at 4,300 m. Altitude is the issue, not the cold.
- Torres del Paine: park entry is booked through CONAF's site in advance, and the refugios and campsites on the W and O circuits sell out months ahead, often by August for the following January.
- You cannot walk into Torres del Paine and find a bed. The park checks reservations at the entrance.
- Both places are cheaper and emptier in the shoulder months, October and March.
Driving
- Chile drives on the right and the roads are the best in South America.
- Route 5, the Panamericana, is a toll road and the tolls add up; keep coins or a card.
- Renting to cross into Argentina needs paperwork from the rental company arranged days in advance, plus extra insurance.
- A 4x4 is only necessary for the Carretera Austral and some Atacama tracks, and rental agreements often forbid the gravel ones.
- Fuel is expensive and stations are far apart in the north and the far south. Fill up when you can.
Apps worth having
- Uber, Cabify and DiDi for rides.
- Metro de Santiago or Moovit for the bip! network.
- Recorrido or PasajeBus to compare and book intercity coaches.
- CONAF's booking site for the parks.
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