Altitude is what will actually affect you, in Quito on the first day. Private clinics in the cities are good and cheap; the Galapagos and the Amazon are a flight from anywhere.
- Quito is at 2,850 metres and it is the highest many visitors have ever slept. Headache, breathlessness and poor sleep on the first day or two are normal.
- Confusion, vomiting or breathlessness at rest are not normal. That is altitude sickness proper and the treatment is to go down, immediately.
- The TelefériQo at 4,050 metres, Cotopaxi and Quilotoa are far higher again, and are day trips people take on day two and regret.
- Dengue and zika are daytime-biting, so use repellent through the day in the lowlands; there is no malaria above about 1,500 metres and none in the Galapagos.
- You are on the equator and at altitude, so burning takes 15 minutes in the sierra on a cool cloudy day. High-factor sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat are not optional.
Altitude, which is the health issue here
Quito is at 2,850 metres and it is the highest many visitors have ever slept. Almost everyone feels it.
- Headache, breathlessness, poor sleep, no appetite and a racing pulse are all normal on the first day or two.
- Do nothing on the day you arrive. No hiking, no drinking, no big meal.
- Drink far more water than usual, and coca tea if it is offered.
- Cotopaxi, Quilotoa and the Quito TelefériQo at 4,050 metres are considerably higher again, and are day trips people take on day two and regret.
- Confusion, vomiting or breathlessness at rest are not normal. That is altitude sickness proper, and the treatment is to go down, immediately.
- Ask a doctor about acetazolamide before you travel if you are heading straight to high altitude.
Vaccinations and mosquitoes
- Yellow fever vaccination is recommended for the Amazon provinces, and a certificate may be asked for if you travel on to another country afterwards.
- Hepatitis A and typhoid are routine recommendations, and rabies is worth discussing for remote travel.
- Dengue, zika and chikungunya are present in the coastal and Amazon lowlands and are daytime-biting mosquitoes, so repellent through the day rather than just at dusk.
- Malaria risk exists in parts of the lowlands and none at all above about 1,500 metres, which means Quito, Cuenca and the sierra are clear.
- There is no malaria and no yellow fever in the Galapagos.
Medical care
- Private clinics in Quito, Guayaquil and Cuenca are good and inexpensive by North American or European standards, and are where you should go.
- Hospital Metropolitano and Hospital de los Valles in Quito, and Clinica Kennedy in Guayaquil, are the ones foreigners are usually directed to.
- Public hospitals are free at the point of emergency and are overstretched.
- You pay up front and claim afterwards. Keep itemised receipts.
- The Galapagos and the Amazon have basic facilities only. Anything serious means a flight to the mainland, which is why insurance with evacuation cover matters more here than the mainland cost of treatment suggests.
Food and water
- Do not drink the tap water. Bottled or properly filtered.
- Ice and salads in established restaurants in the cities are generally fine, and at a roadside stall are not.
- Stomach upsets are common in the first days, usually from the change rather than contamination. Carry rehydration salts.
- The street food is excellent and the busy stall with a queue of locals is the safe one.
- Seafood on the coast is superb, and ceviche is safe where the turnover is fast.
The sun
- You are on the equator and at altitude. The ultraviolet index in Quito is among the highest measured anywhere on earth.
- Burning takes 15 minutes in the sierra, on a cool cloudy day, in the shade of a hat brim.
- High-factor sunscreen every day, sunglasses, and a hat. This is not optional at 2,850 metres.
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