A cash country. ATMs charge about NPR 500 a withdrawal and cap you near NPR 35,000, so take the maximum each time. Cards work in hotels and little else.
- Nepal runs on cash - teahouses, taxis, buses, small restaurants and permits at a checkpoint.
- ATM fees are roughly NPR 500 per withdrawal on a foreign card, with a cap of NPR 25,000 to NPR 35,000, so take the maximum every time.
- ATMs run dry around festivals, especially Dashain, when the whole country wants cash at once.
- A 3% to 4% surcharge for paying by card is normal and openly quoted; Amex is close to useless.
- Break big notes whenever you can - nobody in a village has change for NPR 1,000 - and check what you are handed, because worn notes get refused later.
Cash, and how much of it
- The Nepali rupee (NPR) is pegged to the Indian rupee at 1.60, which has held for decades and makes the exchange rate boringly stable.
- Nepal runs on cash. Teahouses, taxis, buses, small restaurants, permits at a checkpoint: cash, in rupees.
- ATM fees are the thing to plan around. Nepali banks charge roughly NPR 500 per withdrawal on a foreign card, on top of whatever your own bank takes.
- The per-withdrawal cap is usually NPR 25,000 to NPR 35,000. Nabil Bank and Himalayan Bank sit at the top end, which is why people queue at them.
- Take the maximum every time. Two big withdrawals cost half what four small ones do.
- ATMs run dry around festivals, especially Dashain, when the whole country wants cash at once.
Cards
- Hotels, established restaurants, trekking agencies and supermarkets take cards. Most other places do not.
- A 3% to 4% surcharge for paying by card is normal and openly quoted.
- Amex is close to useless. Visa and Mastercard both work.
- Tell your bank you are travelling. A blocked card in a cash country with a NPR 500 ATM fee is a bad afternoon.
Changing money
- Exchange counters in Thamel and Lakeside are competitive and quick and beat the airport by a wide margin.
- US dollars are the easiest currency to change, then euros and sterling.
- Keep the receipts if you want to change rupees back on the way out; the rules ask for them.
- Rupees are hard to spend elsewhere. Change back what you do not need before you leave.
Indian rupees, which changed in 2026
- Since 24 July 2026 you may bring INR 200 and INR 500 notes into Nepal, up to INR 25,000 per person, ending a ban that had run since 2019.
- The notes must be from the post-2016 series.
- INR 2,000 notes remain banned outright.
- INR 100 notes and below have always been fine and circulate near the border as a matter of course.
Small things that cost you
- Break big notes whenever you can. Nobody in a village has change for NPR 1,000.
- Check notes you are given. Very worn or torn rupee notes get refused later and you are the one holding them.
- Tipping is expected in tourism and not much else: NPR 100 to NPR 200 for a porter with your bags, 10% at a tourist restaurant if no service charge was added, and for a trekking guide and porter a day's pay per week is the going rate.
- A 13% VAT and a 10% service charge are added in tourist restaurants, and the menu price is not what you pay.
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