Where to stay in Oman

Muscat

• Muttrah - the old port, the corniche and the souq. The most atmospheric place to stay and walkable.
• Qurum and Shatti Al Qurum - beaches, restaurants and the mid-range and upper hotels.
• Muscat is very spread out - it runs 50 km along the coast - so where you stay determines how much driving you do.

The interior

• Nizwa - the old capital, the fort, the Friday goat market, and the base for Jebel Akhdar and Jebel Shams.
• Jebel Akhdar - cool at 2,000 m, terraced rose farms, and a handful of expensive mountain hotels. Access requires four-wheel drive and it is checked at the bottom.
• Wahiba Sands - desert camps, from basic to luxurious. Book with a camp that collects you from the tarmac, unless you have a proper 4x4 and know how to drive sand.

The coast and the south

• Sur and Ras Al Jinz - the turtle beach, where green turtles nest year round and the viewing is organised and licensed.
• Salalah - 1,000 km south, and during the khareef monsoon from June to September it turns green, which is unique in Arabia and is why Gulf families fill it every summer. Book far ahead for that season.

Practical

• Dress code applies in the hotel too. Swimwear is for the pool and tourist beaches only, not the lobby or the street.
• Camping is legal and common in Oman and wild camping on the beaches is normal - but not in a wadi bed between October and March.
• Ramadan changes hotel restaurant hours substantially.