A conservative Muslim country with a Friday-Saturday weekend, UK plugs, and a set of dress and behaviour rules that are worth reading before you pack.
- Cover shoulders and knees in public, men included. Government buildings, hospitals and banks enforce it and some malls will turn people away.
- Alcohol is sold only in licensed hotel bars and restaurants - no bars outside hotels and no shops - at 21 and up, with an original passport or ID rather than a photocopy.
- The weekend is Friday and Saturday, Friday morning is very quiet, and shops stay open to 22:00 or later because the evening is when it is bearable outside.
- During Ramadan nobody eats, drinks or smokes in public in daylight, non-Muslims included, and everything shifts to the evening.
- Plugs are the British three-pin type at 240 V, English is universal in shops and hospitals, and everything indoors is over-air-conditioned enough to want a layer in August.
Dress
- Cover shoulders and knees in public. This applies to men as well as women, and shorts on a man in a mall attract attention.
- Government buildings, hospitals and banks enforce it, and some malls will turn people away.
- Swimwear is for the beach, the pool and nowhere else, including the walk back to your room.
- A scarf is useful for a mosque visit, and the Katara mosque and the Museum of Islamic Art both expect modest dress.
- Nobody expects a visitor to cover their hair in the street.
Alcohol
- Sold only in licensed hotel bars and restaurants. There are no bars outside hotels and no shops.
- The legal age is 21 and an original passport or ID is asked for. A photocopy is not accepted.
- It is expensive, deliberately so.
- Duty free on arrival is not available to visitors the way it is in Dubai.
- Being drunk in public is a criminal offence. Take a taxi from the hotel door.
The week and the day
- The weekend is Friday and Saturday. Friday morning is very quiet, with most things opening after midday prayers.
- Shops and malls stay open late, often to 22:00 or later, because the evening is when it is bearable outside.
- Government offices work mornings.
- Prayer times pause some businesses briefly five times a day.
Ramadan
- Eating, drinking and smoking in public during daylight is prohibited, for everyone including non-Muslims.
- Hotels serve food to guests discreetly, usually in a screened area.
- Working hours shorten and everything shifts to the evening.
- Iftar and the night markets are the best time of the year to visit if you are willing to live on that schedule.
Practical odds and ends
- Plugs are the British three-pin type at 240 V, 50 Hz.
- Arabic is the official language and English is universal in shops, hospitals and government offices.
- The weekend brunch is a Doha institution and books out.
- Everything indoors is over-air-conditioned. Carry a layer, in August especially.
- Tap water is safe, the sun is stronger than it feels, and sunglasses are not an affectation here.
- Metrash2 is the government app for fines, permits and visa extensions, and is worth installing if you are staying more than a few days.
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