Where to stay in Chile

Where to stay

• Santiago: Providencia and Lastarria for visitors, Bellas Artes for nightlife, Las Condes for business hotels. The centre empties at night.
• Valparaiso: Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion, in restored houses on the hills, and it is worth the stairs.
• San Pedro de Atacama is small, adobe and expensive for what you get. Book ahead in season.
• Patagonia is refugios, domes and lodges, all of them booked far in advance and priced accordingly.
• The Lake District around Pucon and Puerto Varas has the best mid-range guesthouses in the country.

Booking

• January and February are the Chilean holidays, and the whole country moves to the coast and to Patagonia. Book by winter.
• Torres del Paine refugios open bookings months ahead and sell out, and the park will turn you away without a reservation.
• Shoulder months are much easier: October, November, March and April.
• Airbnb is widespread and legal, and often the best value in Santiago and Valparaiso.

Practical

• Ask for the IVA exemption at check-in, passport and tourist card in hand.
• Heating in the south is often a wood stove that goes out overnight. Ask before booking in winter.
• Hot water in older buildings is a californ (gas heater) and can be temperamental.
• Earthquake standards are high and modern buildings are engineered for it; the reason nobody panics is that they are used to it.
• Wi-fi is good in cities and unreliable in Patagonia, where satellite is normal and video calls are not.