Distances are short on the map and long in practice. 200 km can be five hours. Plan half the driving you think you can do and book shuttles for the rest.
- Costa Rica is the size of Denmark and takes four times as long to cross. San Jose to La Fortuna is 125 km and about 3 hours; to Monteverde 170 km and 4.
- Two destinations a week is a comfortable pace, three is a driving holiday, and you should add an hour to whatever the map says in the rainy season.
- Public buses reach nearly everywhere for a few dollars, but there is no single national timetable - each route has its own company and its own San Jose terminal.
- Shared shuttles cost ten times as much and halve the time, door to door and air conditioned. Interbus and Grayline are the big two.
- Many national parks now need an advance online reservation through SINAC with daily caps - Manuel Antonio and Corcovado especially, and Corcovado requires a certified guide.
The distance problem
Costa Rica is the size of Denmark and takes four times as long to cross.
- San Jose to La Fortuna is 125 km and takes about 3 hours. San Jose to Monteverde is 170 km and takes 4. San Jose to Puerto Viejo is 215 km and takes 4h30.
- Mountain roads, single carriageways and towns with no bypass are why. Nothing here is a motorway drive.
- Two destinations a week is a comfortable pace. Three is a driving holiday.
- Add an hour to whatever the map says in the rainy season.
Buses
- The public bus network is excellent value and reaches nearly everywhere. Fares are a few dollars.
- There is no single national timetable. Each route has its own company and its own terminal in San Jose, which is the confusing part.
- Buy at the terminal, in cash, and turn up early for popular routes at weekends.
- Luggage goes underneath and is generally safe, but keep valuables on you.
Shuttles and taxis
- Shared shuttles are the standard tourist option and are worth the money: door to door, air conditioned, no changes.
- Uber works in San Jose and the bigger towns and not in most beach communities.
- Official taxis are red with a yellow triangle and have a meter (maria). Ask for it to be switched on.
- Orange taxis are airport-only.
- In beach towns, informal taxis (piratas) are common and are what everyone uses. Agree the price first.
National parks
- Many parks now require an advance online reservation through SINAC, with daily visitor caps. Manuel Antonio and Corcovado in particular.
- Corcovado requires a certified guide and cannot be visited independently.
- Book Manuel Antonio days ahead in high season. It sells out and turning up does not work.
- Parks open early and close early, typically 07:00 to 16:00, and wildlife is best in the first two hours.
Apps
- Waze for driving, and it is meaningfully better than the alternatives here.
- Uber in the Central Valley.
- WhatsApp for everything else, including booking shuttles and confirming lodges.
- Offline maps downloaded before you leave the city, because coverage dies in the mountains.
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