Getting around Guatemala
Tourist shuttles, chicken buses you should think twice about, and boats on the lake.
The shuttle network
- Shared tourist shuttles are how visitors move around Guatemala. Every hostel and agency sells the same seats on the same minibuses, so shop on departure time rather than price.
- They are slow. Antigua to Lake Atitlan is about 90 km and takes three hours.
Buses
- The painted "chicken buses" are converted American school buses and are the country's real transport network - and the FCDO is blunt that gang attacks and extortion on bus drivers have caused serious injury and death, and that armed robberies happen on most tourist routes.
- Private intercity coaches - the first-class lines between the big cities - are considerably safer, and are the right choice for a long leg.
- Do not travel intercity at night.
On the lake
- Public lanchas connect the Atitlan villages and are cheap, frequent until late afternoon, and stop early. Missing the last boat means a long road journey around.
- Agree the fare before boarding on a private boat.
Driving
- Roads are mountainous, unlit and slow. Landslides close them in the rainy season.
- Roadblocks from protests happen and can close a highway for a day or more.
Apps and platforms
Uber, the declaration portal and one phone number worth more than any app.
Worth having
- Uber works in Guatemala City and Antigua and is the FCDO's recommended alternative to a street taxi.
- The SAT portal for the traveller declaration - file it before you fly.
- Maps downloaded offline. Signal disappears on the mountain roads, and that is exactly where you want to know where you are.
The number to save
- 1500 is the tourist assistance line. It is free, it runs 24 hours a day all year, operators handle English, and it is a direct liaison with embassies, consulates and the security services. It is not a call centre for hotel bookings - it exists to help a foreign visitor in trouble.
- Save it before you need it. Almost nothing written for visitors to Guatemala mentions it, and it is the single most useful thing in this guide.
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