Where to stay in Kenya

The three kinds of stay

• Nairobi hotels are business-standard and priced accordingly. Westlands and Kilimani for restaurants, the CBD for cheapness and not much else.
• Safari camps and lodges run from KES 8,000 a night at a basic tented camp to several hundred dollars at a conservancy lodge, usually full board.
• The coast is resorts at Diani and Watamu, boutique places in Lamu, and guesthouses everywhere between.

The question to ask before booking a safari lodge

• Does the rate include park or conservancy fees? At USD 200 per person per day in the Mara from July, this is the difference between a good deal and a shock.
• Does it include game drives? Some camps charge per drive and some include two a day.
• Is it inside the reserve or outside the gate? Inside costs more and saves an hour of driving each way.
• Full board is the norm in camps because there is nowhere else to eat.

Seasons

• July to October is the migration and the peak. Prices are highest and the Mara is busy.
• The long rains, roughly April and May, close some camps and cut prices hard elsewhere.
• December and January are dry, hot and popular with families.
• The coast is at its best from December to March; the long rains flood it.
• Book the Mara for migration season months ahead. Everything good is taken.

Practical

• Nairobi hotels have serious security: gates, scanners and bag checks. That is normal here rather than alarming.
• Camps run on generators and solar, and power hours are limited. Charge at dinner.
• Mosquito nets are standard in malaria areas and should be used, tucked in.
• Walking outside a camp at night is not allowed in unfenced areas, and an askari will escort you to your tent for good reason.
• Tipping is expected at lodges and is usually pooled.