Getting around Morocco: transport and apps

Trains

• ONCF runs the network and it is comfortable and punctual, which surprises first-time visitors.
• Al Boraq is the high-speed line, Tangier to Casablanca via Rabat at up to 320 km/h, in a little over 2 hours. It is Africa's only high-speed rail service.
• Ordinary Al Atlas trains cover the rest. Casablanca to Marrakech about 3 hours, Casablanca to Fez about 4, Casablanca to Rabat about 1.
• Second class costs from about MAD 100 on the main routes, first class perhaps 30 percent more and worth it in summer for the reserved seat and the air conditioning.
• First class is reserved seating, second class is not on many services, so in August first class is the difference between sitting and standing.
• The line south of Casablanca to Marrakech is being extended for high speed, part of the build-up to the 2030 World Cup, so expect construction and occasional timetable changes.

Buses

• CTM and Supratours are the two reliable national operators. Modern coaches, fixed seats, luggage checked into the hold for a few dirhams.
• Book CTM or Supratours online or at the station, especially for Chefchaouen, Merzouga and Essaouira, where they sell out.
• Supratours connects to train tickets, so Marrakech to Essaouira is bookable as one journey.
• Avoid the unbranded local buses for long distances unless you have time and patience to spare.
• 12Go sells Moroccan buses and trains in one place, which helps for Marrakech to Essaouira, Casablanca to Marrakech and the Chefchaouen run.

Grands taxis and driving

• Grands taxis fill the gaps, running fixed routes when six passengers have gathered. Cheap, fast and cramped.
• Driving yourself is fine on the motorways and challenging in cities. Moroccan urban traffic has its own conventions.
• The motorways are tolled and in good condition. Casablanca to Marrakech is about MAD 80 in tolls.
• Never drive into a medina. The lanes are metres wide and you will not get out.
• Police checkpoints are frequent on rural roads. Slow down, be polite, have your documents.
• Speed cameras are everywhere on the main roads and fines are collected on the spot.

In town

• Medinas are walked, not driven. Distances are short and the map is useless without offline data.
• Casablanca and Rabat have trams, cheap and easy, with tickets from machines at the stops.
• Carriages (calèches) in Marrakech have posted official rates. Ask to see them.