Violent crime against tourists is rare and Morocco is safer than its reputation. What you will meet instead is a well-practised economy of commission, and four or five moves cover almost all of it.
- Almost every scam here is a commission arrangement. "That way is closed", "the square is shut today" and "a Berber market only today" are all false: keep walking and say "la, shukran".
- Unofficial guides attach themselves and bill you MAD 100 to MAD 200 at the end. Decline clearly at the start; official guides carry a badge and are booked through your riad.
- Henna, snake charmers, monkeys and water sellers are never free. A hand taken for henna ends in a MAD 200 to MAD 500 demand, so keep your hands and your camera down until you have agreed a price.
- Cannabis is a criminal offence even though it is openly offered in Chefchaouen, alcohol is sold only in licensed places, and police, military sites and royal palaces are not to be photographed.
- Violent crime against tourists is uncommon and the Brigade Touristique operates in every main city. Road traffic is the real physical risk, especially at night on rural roads.
The medina playbook
Almost every "scam" in Morocco is a commission arrangement, and the answers are short.
- "That way is closed", "the square is shut today", "there is a Berber market only today". All false. Keep walking, say "la, shukran" (no, thank you).
- Unofficial guides attach themselves and then bill you. Someone who walks with you uninvited will want MAD 100 to MAD 200 at the end. Decline clearly at the start, not politely at the end.
- Official guides carry a badge and are booked through your riad or the tourist office. They are good value and worth hiring for a first morning in Fez.
- Anyone who leads you to a shop is on commission, which you pay in the price.
- Henna: a woman takes your hand and starts painting, then asks MAD 200 to MAD 500. Keep your hands to yourself in Jemaa el-Fna.
- Photographs of snake charmers, monkeys and water sellers are not free. Agree a price first, MAD 20 or so, or do not raise the camera.
- Tanneries in Fez: a "free" viewing terrace ends with heavy pressure to buy leather. Go with a guide you chose.
Taxis and money
- Insist on the meter or fix the price before the door closes. This is the most frequent daily annoyance in Morocco.
- Check your change. Note swapping happens, particularly with 200 dirham notes.
- Never change money on the street.
- Agree the price of a carriage ride, a camel, a hammam or a cart porter before it starts.
The law
- Drugs are illegal. Cannabis is grown in the Rif and openly offered in Chefchaouen, and buying it is a criminal offence with real prison sentences.
- Homosexual acts are illegal under Moroccan law. Prosecutions of visitors are rare, but discretion is genuinely necessary.
- Sex outside marriage is technically illegal. It does not affect foreign couples in hotels.
- Alcohol is legal but restricted. It is sold in licensed hotels, bars and some supermarkets, not in the medina, and drinking in the street is an offence.
- Do not photograph police, military sites or royal palaces.
- Criticising the monarchy is a criminal matter. Not a topic for a cafe conversation.
Ordinary safety
- Violent crime against tourists is uncommon and the Brigade Touristique, a dedicated tourist police force, operates in all the main cities, including a station beside Jemaa el-Fna.
- Bag snatching from mopeds happens in Casablanca and Marrakech. Carry your bag on the wall side.
- Solo women receive persistent verbal attention, more so in the medinas. It is tiring rather than dangerous. Sunglasses, purpose in your walk, and no engagement work best.
- Road traffic is the real physical risk. Moroccan road deaths are high and night driving on rural roads is genuinely dangerous.
- The Atlas earthquake of September 2023 damaged villages south of Marrakech. Marrakech itself is fine and reconstruction is well advanced, but some mountain roads are still affected.
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