Where to stay in Albania

The riviera

• The Albanian riviera - Himara, Dhermi, Ksamil - is the cheapest good coast in the Mediterranean and it is not a secret any more.
• July and August fill it completely, mostly with Albanians and Kosovars, and prices rise sharply.
• June and September are much better.
• Out of season most of it closes.

Inland

• Berat and Gjirokaster are UNESCO towns with Ottoman houses converted into guesthouses, and are excellent value.
• The Accursed Mountains (Theth, Valbona) have guesthouses that book out for the summer walking season and are hard to reach outside it.

Practicalities

• You will be asked for your passport at check-in.
• Cash is often expected in family-run guesthouses.
• Air conditioning is not universal and the coast is very hot in August.