Getting around Croatia: transport and apps

Buses, not trains

• The bus network is the backbone of Croatian travel. Frequent, comfortable and reaching everywhere the train does not.
• FlixBus, Arriva and Croatia Bus run the main routes. Zagreb to Split takes 5 to 6 hours, Split to Dubrovnik about 4.5.
• Trains are slow and limited. There is no rail line to Dubrovnik at all and the Zagreb to Split train takes longer than the bus.
• Bags in the hold usually cost EUR 1 to EUR 2 extra, paid in cash to the driver. This surprises everyone once.
• 12Go sells Croatian buses and ferries together, which is convenient when you are stringing islands and cities into one route.

Ferries are the thing to plan

• Jadrolinija is the state operator, running car ferries plus catamarans. Kapetan Luka (Krilo) and TP Line run fast catamarans.
• Foot passengers on catamarans should book ahead in July and August. Seats are capped and the popular sailings genuinely sell out.
• Car ferries do not take reservations on most routes. You queue, and in peak season you queue for hours. Arrive early or accept the wait.
• Timetables change several times a year. Check again a few days before you travel, not just when you plan.
• The catamaran is faster but foot passengers only. If you have a hire car you need the car ferry.

In town

• Zagreb has trams, and a ticket from a Tisak kiosk costs less than one bought on board.
• Split and Dubrovnik run city buses. In Dubrovnik the Old Town is pedestrian only and you walk.
• Uber and Bolt operate in Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik and Zadar and undercut street taxis.

Driving

• Motorways are excellent and tolled. Zagreb to Split costs roughly EUR 25 in tolls. You take a ticket on entry and pay on exit, by card or cash.
• The coastal road is beautiful and slow. Budget double the time the map suggests.
• Winter equipment is compulsory from 15 November to 15 April on many inland roads.
• Parking in coastal towns in August is genuinely difficult and illegally parked cars are towed quickly.
• Bura wind closes bridges and coastal roads, especially the Maslenica bridge. HAK publishes live restrictions.