Getting from Tribhuvan International Airport to the city

The prepaid desk

• It is inside the terminal, before you reach the exit.
• Around NPR 900 to Thamel, the backpacker and trekking district where most visitors stay.
• You pay at the counter and are assigned a driver, which removes the negotiation entirely.
• A night surcharge of about NPR 100 applies after roughly 21:00.
• Air conditioning adds about 25 per cent if you ask for it.

Outside the terminal

• The car park is a different economy. Drivers there quote what they think you will pay.
• If you use one anyway, agree the fare first and have small notes.
• Ignore the offers as you walk out. A polite refusal and continuing to walk is normal and expected.

Check whether you already have a pickup

• Hotels and trekking companies routinely include an airport transfer, and a great many visitors to Nepal arrive on a booked trek.
• Look for the boards with names on them in the arrivals area before you buy anything.
• Ask your operator in advance. Paying for a taxi you had already booked is the standard waste here.

Practical points

• Thamel is close but slow - about 5 to 6 km, and 30 to 40 minutes in traffic.
• Visa on arrival is available for most nationalities and the queue can be long; fill the form online before you fly if you can. See the Nepal guide.
• Bring small notes in USD or EUR for the visa fee - the machines are unreliable and cash is the dependable route.
• Air quality in the Kathmandu valley is poor, particularly in winter. If you are sensitive, this will be the first thing you notice.